At the age of 13, Stefano Pilati tattooed the international symbols for male and female on his arm, the rings interlocking. This early identification with the harmonious collision of gender identities has come to define his three-decade-strong career. The Milanese designer is revered for his gender-neutral, subversively elegant designs at the helm of Yves Saint Laurent (2004-2012), Ermenegildo Zegna Couture (2013-2016) and his own label, Random Identities, which he founded in 2017.

Invited by Kim Jones to be the first guest fashion designer for Friends of Fendi, a rare model in luxury fashion which celebrates the fruits of outside input, Pilati’s work looks forward, asking questions and providing solutions. Drawing inspiration from Fendi’s birthplace of Rome, Pilati breathes new life into “Empire” yellow and “Roma” green, the honeysuckle, pine and sage shades of the city’s faded facades. Here, the Eternal City’s colours are given a Pilati twist, blending menswear tailoring with the grace of haute couture and a playful approach to silhouette; a fresh take on Fendi that proposes a renewed attitude of easy luxury and underlines the brand’s openness to re-interpretation. ◉

All clothes and accessories from the Fendi Winter 2023-24 Collection curated with Stefano Pilati.

Hair: Simone Prusso at Julian Watson Agency / Make-up: Susy Carducci using QMS Medicosmetics / Videography: Gio Barberis / Production: Valentina Tedone at Officina Agency / Casting: Tytiah at Unit C / Photography assistant: Andrea Luna / Styling assistant: Elena Bignamini / Make-up assistant: Daniela Decillo / Production assistant: Chiara Maccagno at Officina Agency / Location: Crisonberillo at Anticàmera Location / Models: Amarlin Purevsukh at Tank Agency and Eugenio Lambri at Elite Model Management